Sunday, April 29, 2012

4.29.2012 Rumney, NH

Instead of making the usual trip to the Adirondacks, we decided to head to New Hampshire and climb at Rumney.  The group this time was a little larger than normal.  Charles, Eloise, Cam, and Joe all came along for the trip.  This is a pretty popular place, so we expected  to see a few more people than we normally do in the Daks.  Overall, it was another successful day, ten routes completed.

Area: Jimmy Cliff
           The Nuthatch
           Hammond Organ

Area: Bonsai

Area: 5.8 Crag
           Snake Skin Slab
           Bolt and Run

I had a long day of meetings for my fraternity, so we had to leave Troy at around 6pm.  The drive to Rumney was a little over three hours.  We arrived at the parking lot near telephone pole #27, put some money in the drop box to get a parking pass for the next day, and then set up camp.  Charles and Eloise slept in the bed of his truck, Cam and I slept in the tent next to the truck in a tent, and Joe slept on the ground next to the tent.  

While we were waiting for water to boil before tossing in a few bricks of Ramen, we all messed around on a couple boulders surrounding the parking area.  After dinner it was time to get a good nights rest.

The first stop of the day was Jimmy Cliff .  Getting here was pretty simple, just walk along the road until pole #37 and then follow the marked trails.  There was plenty of signage to direct climbers to all the different areas.  The first climb of the day was Lonesome Dove, which Cam lead before setting up the other rope on Junco .  After TRing on these for a little while, I led The Nuthatch.  Afterwards, Cam led Hammond Organ and then Eloise and I climbed it.

Cam on Lonesome Dove
Belaying Cam on Lonesome Dove
Joe following The Nuthatch, Eloise on Hammond Organ
Cam leading Junco on the left, Eloise cleaning Lonesome Dove on the right
One of the other groups climbing here said that it would be good to check out  Bonsai, as there are plenty of high quality climbs between 5.8 and 5.11 there.  The first tick here was on Masterpiece, which Cam lead and I followed.  This crag was plenty overhanging, even though the photos do not really show it.  I wanted to get a lead in here also, so we walked to the right side of the cliff to Kamikazee.  Once again, we cycled through on this climb before heading to Centerpiece.  Cam had a solid lead here, and I followed.

Cleaning Masterpiece
Ropes were set up on nearly every route
Cam leading Centerpiece
Cam up on Centerpiece
Starting up to clean Centerpiece
Cleaning Centerpiece
Nice and juggy, but plenty overhanging
The crowds were gathering at Bonsai, so instead of waiting to get on more routes we headed down to the 5.8 Crag to check out what it had to offer.  It was a worthwhile trip, as there were some pretty good climbs.  I started off leading Snake Skin Slab, graded at 5.8, but Cam and I both agreed that it seemed a little sandbagged.  Oh well, still a great climb, great feet and delicate hands throughout the upper half.  Cam took the lead on Bolt and Run, which Eloise and I followed.  Afterwards we broke out the minimal trad rack that we took along for Cam to lead The 5.8 Crack by the Road.  The route name is a little peculiar because it is actually a 5.7 climb.  I followed to pull the protection and Eloise finished off the day rappelling down off the route because there were no quicklink anchors.

Charles attempting Snake Skin Slab
Joe attempting Snake Skin Slab
Eloise working her way up the climb
Cam leading Bolt and Run

Seconding on Bolt and Run
Big thanks to Clif Bar for supplying us with the energy we needed to climb all day long without much of a break. 


  1. Cam. It really isn't that hard to lead a 5.10d sport route. Let me know when you can do that with gear, OK?

  2. Hm I see what you're talking about with those photos. Looks like maybe you need to check and make sure there isn't a space (literally, a space as in the spacebar) between them. I don't usually drag my photos because that gets really messy really fast for me. I usually copy and paste. I hope it works out for you. I love your header!! Did you do that in photoshop?